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2016 GMC Canyon
Homelink Install

Vehicle Information: 2016 GMC Canyon SLT Crew Cab.
This write-up requires some technical knowledge of electronics, circuit boards, and soldering.
If this write up sounds like it was written in a foreign language, then perhaps - it's not for you. This write-up does not include step-by-step instructions and is to be used as reference only. The parts you use may differ from what what used in our install.

We have another 'similar' write up of a Homelink install in a 2001 Corvette. You can view that write up HERE:

We decided to put the homelink buttons in the overhead console because we felt that was the most convenient place. We didn't want to cut into other areas of the truck - like the headliner or visors, etc. If we ever have to sell the truck and/or remove the Homelink - it can be done rather easily.

Tools & Parts Needed:
Homelink Transmitter - sourced on eBay
3 Push Buttons of your choice
(SPST Momentary, Normally Open)
Solder
Wires, Crimps, Tap-ins, or plugs (to meet your install)
LED component (if applicable to your install)
Light pipe (if applicable to your install)
Volt-Ohm Meter
Good quality soldering iron
Crimp Tool (if needed in your install)
Wire strippers
Glue gun & Hot glue (if applicable to your install)
Drill & Drill bits (if applicable to your install)
....and that's the basics.

Click any of the small photos for a larger version.

Homelink Transmitter

You can find these just about anywhere online. This is a homelink transmitter that is normally installed in a sun visor. You should look for one with rolling code- as this should be compatible with most garage doors. The Homelink we ordered came from eBay and is a newer 2015 unit for our rolling code Chamberlain garage door openers..


Don't forget, you can click any of the pictures for a larger version to see more detail.

Switches / Buttons:
You can use any SPST buttons/switches you choose as long as they are Single Pole/Single Throw, Momentary, Normally Open.

We weren't sure how much room we have in the overhead console - so we chose a low profile 12mm switch. The location you chose and the clearance available, will dictate the height of the switch you can use.

We ordered our switches on eBay. Whatever switches you go with, use care when soldering as these small switches are temperature sensitive and can easily be damaged if too much heat is applied.

 

Remove Overhead Console & Run Some Tests

Remove the overhead console - it is attached by 4 clips, one in each corner. Let the console hang while you use your meter to probe the wires/connections for ground & power. You want 12 volts while the engine is off, keys are out of the ignition, and doors are closed. This will allow you to open the garage door at anytime. You will eventually tap into the power & ground wires later in the install.

Remove the console by disconnecting the two harnesses/plugs. Take the overhead console to your clean work area.

Open the Homelink Transmitter

This is where your electronics skills will come in handy. Depending on the transmitter you buy, your connection points may differ from the ones we used.

As you can see - the three buttons at the bottom are what you will be probing. You need to find which 'pads' on the circuit board you will need to solder to - open or closed circuits.

The flat blade at the top is where the power comes in - you will need to discover which of these is ground and which is power. I our case, 12v+ was the pad on the right as viewed in this photo. Ground (12-) was the inside pad (the one on the left). To determine this, we used an old 12v accessory adapter, cut the wires, and temporarily soldered it to the blade connector, plugged it into the truck and ran some tests. This is a great time to program the homelink transmitter to make sure it's functioning properly.

Transmitter Wiring

PLEASE NOTE - Do not rely solely on this photo for your own install. Your transmitter may differ from the one we used. You will need to do your own testing of the circuits.

Power Wiring:
At the top of the picture you can see the 2 conductor cable (RED/BLACK) that we used for providing 12V power to the transmitter. This cable will be tapped into constant 12V power from the overhead console later in the install.

Button Wiring:
The wires at the bottom of the picture are for the transmitter buttons and will be connected to the buttons on your overhead console. I used a a length of 8 conductor cable for my install. You can use individual wires with good success. I just used what I had on hand.

The yellow & brown wires are for an LED light that we installed in the console near the push buttons. This is optional. I just ran wires from the LED on the PCB to my external LED.
The black & purple are for door #1
The orange is for door #2
The blue is for door #3

Note: I only ran one black wire to the first push button on the PCB. In order to do that, you have to connector the common terminal on each push button. See photo later in the write up.

 

Transmitter Wiring Part II

I had some male and female 9-pin DIN connectors on hand from an old project. These made for a pretty slick install as all of the wires are soldered to the mating connectors making for a very serviceable installation, should we ever have to remove the console. Again, you can just run individual wires if you choose.

Transmitter Wiring Final

This is the end result of the transmitter wiring.

PLUG END (upper right) - This plug will mate with the other plug coming from your console buttons.

CRIMP END (lower left) - As mentioned earlier, we didn't want one continuous wire from the transmitter to power. We installed mating sets of crimp connections. In order to make it easy to "tap in" to the existing truck wiring for power, we used the two red "tap in" connectors show on the lower right of the photo. We installed the tap in connectors on 12v+ and Ground, and connected the pigtail wiring shown in the photo. That pigtail then supplies power to the transmitter.

Button Placement & Mock up

This is where you mock up the buttons on the overhead console. Measure twice, cut once!!
We also drilled a small hole hole for a 'Light Pipe'. This light pipe allows for a very clean, non-intrusive install of the LED. This LED gives you visual feedback when the buttons are pressed, or you are programming the transmitter, just like a factory install.

Installing & Soldering Buttons

All three buttons were fitted and installed. The plastic fins (right) on the overhead console had to be shaved down to allow fitment of the buttons. A Dremel made quick work of those fins and left a factory appearance.

If you refer back to this PHOTO from previously -

The black & purple are for button #1 (door #1)
The orange is for button #2 (door #2)
The blue is for door #3
(door #3)
The black wire was soldered inline with all 3 buttons so only one needs to be soldered on the PCB.

To the left you can see the light pipe hot glued to the console. The LED has not been installed onto the light pipe at this time for clarity. The LED light (red) has been wired to the Orange & brown wire.

Buttons with Plug

Just like the wiring from the PCB, the wiring from the console was installed into a mating 9-pin DIN connector.

This is just another photo of the buttons with the plug. This will mate with the plug from the transmitter.

Finishing up with some Hot Glue

Added some hot glue to the wiring to prevent them from moving around and breaking the solder joints. The LED was also hot-glued to the light pipe.

Close up of Hot Glue

The console is ready to install in the truck.

 

Added some hot glue to the wiring to prevent them from moving around and breaking the solder joints. The LED was also hot-glued to the light pipe.

Final Result

We tucked all of the wiring and transmitter to the right and behind the overhead console as there's plenty of room there. In the photo to the left you can see the three low profile push buttons, and the light pipe just above the center button.

Overall, we are very pleased with this install. We hope you enjoyed the write-up and get some good information from it.

Modify your vehicle at your own risk.


I hope you found this write-up useful. Good Luck with your install!