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C5 Rocking Seat Fix - Page 1

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Vehicle Information: 2001 Corvette Coupe. We've only had the Corvette for a little over a month at the time of this write-up but have learned so much from other members of the Corvette online community that this is our way of giving back. We read several write-ups before attempting this fix, and pictures sure would have been a big help. Hopefully those of you with the rocking seat problem that have been putting off the repair will see that it really isn't too bad, and will give it a try. Let us know what you think via email via the link in the left bar, or on www.corvetteforum.com. Our user names on there are 'Sliebl' and 'Janster'.

Although this fix can most likely be used for any year C5 Corvette, your application may have subtle differences not shown in these pictures. Use our write-ups at your own risk. Please don't attempt these fixes if you aren't atleast mechanically inclined. We take no responsibility for damage that may result from the use of our write-ups.

What is the Rocking Seat?: On many C5 Corvettes, the rubber isolators will wear out in the seat tracks causing the seat to rock backwards slightly under acceleration, and forward under breaking. How annoying! The "Easy Exit Seat" setting on memory package equipped Corvettes seems to exagerate the problem with undue wear and tear on the rubber isolators. I'd recommend turning off this feature unless you really need it.

With our write-up you will not have to split the seat tracks apart. No removing the white ball bearings will be required!

Parts Required: 8 Nylon Washers total. 3/4" OD, 7/16" ID, 1/8" THICK. We got ours at ACE Hardware for $0.30 each. Our ACE part number for these washers was 59558K. You can also find suitable washers at True Value, and some other home improvement stores. I have also read on various forums that ACE part number NYXH will also work. Again, it's not the part number that is important, it's the dimensions of the washer, and even then, you'll be changing that slightly. You will also need some grease to repack the aluminum block during reassembly. We used some Mobil1 synthetic bearing grease. Use whatever you have.

Tools Required: 15mm socket w/ratchet, T-20 torx socket, T-25 torx socket, T-40 torx socket, 1/4" wrench, small screwdriver, pliers.

Difficulty Level: I'd give this a rating of 2 out of 5 with 5 being the most difficult mods, and 1 being an oil change. Plan on 2-3 hours if you take your time. Have a buddy help you lift the seats out of the car to prevent damage to the door sills and surrounding trim pieces.

Note: Please do one seat at a time so you have a point of reference, should something not go back together correctly.
Click any of the small photos for a larger version.

Step 1: Remove Plastic Trim Fastener

You need to remove the two trim pieces that cover the mounting nuts at the front of the seat. We did the passenger side first, and almost all of the photos are of that seat for your reference.

Pull the center part of the fastener towards the front of the vehicle. The fastener will pop right out.

You may need to get it started with a small screwdriver, and finish it with the pair of pliers.
Don't forget, you can click any of the pictures for a larger version to see more detail.

Step 2: Remove Plastic Trim

Slide the trim pieces forward to reveal the 15mm nuts that need to be removed.

We actually found enough change to buy the $3.00 worth of washers we needed for this fix!

Note: All the change is from the previous owner. What a slob.

Step 3: Remove Two Front Seat Mounting Nuts

There are two 15mm nuts that need removed. Slide the seat backwards if you don't have enough room to remove them.

Step 4: Slide Seat Forward and Raise to Highest Setting

This step is VERY important. Make sure the seat is as far forward as it will go, and raised as high as it will go. Not performing this step may cause the seat to bind when you reinstall the lead screw later.

Step 5: Remove Two Rear Seat Mounting Nuts

Having the seat all the way forward and raised to the highest setting will make it easy to remove the rear mounting nuts. Look closely, there may be more change in there!

Step 6: Lift Seat Off of Mounting Studs

Lift the seat up and off of the mounting nuts. Pull it towards the door sill and tilt it towards the center console. This is to expose the wiring harness that you need to unplug. Please make sure you cover your door sill with a towel to avoid scratching the paint or the plastic trim.

Step 7: Unclip the Wiring Harness

With the seat positioned so you can reach the harness, gently push the connector latch in to release it. Pull the two halves of the connector apart. The passenger seat has one harness, the drivers side has two. I believe one is for the memory seat package, you may or may not have this harness.

Please note the towel protecting the rockers.

Step 8: Remove Connector From Seat Track

After separating the two halves of the connector, you need to slide the one half off of a small gray clip that attaches it to the seat track. Slide the connector half towards the back of the seat and it will slide off of the gray clip. The clip remains attached to the seat track. It's tricky to reassemble the connector onto the connector housing, but just look carefully while you are taking it apart, or study this picture and you can easily see how it goes back together.

Step 9: Drivers Side Harness Detail (for when you get to this side)

As mentioned in step 7 above, the drivers seat has two harnesses, and the passenger side only has one. Remove the second harness just like the first one once you get to the drivers side.

Now, back to the passenger side removal.

Don't quit on me now! We're just getting to the good stuff!

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