Step 20: Lead Screw Before Disassembly

Again, it's a good idea to do these steps on some cardboard or paper towels. Wash your hands before handling the leather seats.

Step 22: Remove the damaged Rubber Isolators From the Aluminum Block

It is now time to get to the offending Rubber Isolators that have caused the Rocking Seat problem! Remove the Nut and Rubber insert from the Aluminum Block. You will not need the Rubber insert for reassembly, as it will be replaced by the Nylon washers that you purchased. Clean all of the parts of the old nasty grease, or at least most of it.

Step 23: Modify the Nylon Washers

The washers you have purchased are 1/8" (0.125") thick. This is too thick to get two of them in the Aluminum Block with the Nut. You will need to sand down the thickness to about 0.110" each. I used a small belt sander, but you can use plain old sand paper to do the job. Sand the washers a little at a time while trial fitting them in the Aluminum Block between sandings. You want a slop free, zero clearance fit when done. Take your time with this step.

When you are able to get two washers and the nut together in the Aluminum Block, sand or file a flat spot on one end of each washer. This will allow the Lead Screw to pass through the center of the Nylon Washers.

Step 24: Reassemble the Aluminum Block

When you have the washers sanded down to a zero clearance fit, you are ready to reassemble your Aluminum Block. After cleaning out most of the old grease, relube to Aluminum Block with a bit of grease. I also applied grease to the individual washers to make reassembly easier. Place the washers on either side of the nut with the flat spots going in first. Push them into the bottom of the block. The Nut should be placed so the peak is facing out of the Aluminum Block. See Step 19 for a detailed picture of that.
MAKE SURE THE WASHERS DO NOT STICK OUT OF THE ALUMINUM HOUSING HIGHER THAN THE PEAK IN THE NUT. IF THEY DO, SHAVE THEM DOWN SLIGHTLY. (Thanks JOHDVETTE)

Step 25: Reinstall Aluminum Block Onto Lead Screw

Wipe excess grease off of the Lead Screw, and relube with new grease before threading on the Aluminum Block assembly.

Step 26: Thread Aluminum Block Assembly All The Way Up The Lead Screw

Turn the Aluminum Block all the way up the lead screw until it contacts the bearing at the other end. Back it off ever so slightly. It's should look just like the picture on the left. Note the orientation of the block to the flat mounting area on the end of the lead screw. Adjust the Lead Screw until it looks like this.

Step 27: Reinstall Lead Screw Assembly Into Seat Track

Pull the track upwards and drop the lead Screw Assembly into the track. Please note the orientation of the assembly during installation. From here you align the bottom of the screw assembly into the pocket it came out of. See step #16 for this photo. Reinstall the T-40 Torx bolt using the same technique you used to remove it. Follow this up with the two T-25 screws. Now, reinstall the 90 degree drive mechanism and it's associated T-20 screws. If the drive mechanism does not engage the lead screw properly, you might have to rotate the Lead Screw a fraction of a turn to get the square drive shafts to line up.

Congratulations! You've got one seat track done! Only 3 more to do! The first track took us an hour or so to do, but we didn't have photos to help us. After that, the other 3 took us about an hour total since we were pros by then!

Take care reinstalling the seats using the reverse of the removal procedure.
We were very happy with the 'non-rocking results' of this fix! You will be too!

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