Innovative Heat II kit for one Seat.

Step 3: Disconnect the wiring harnass from the seat. Tilt the entire seat back off the floor (towards rear of cab) - this will give you room to reach the plugs. NOTE: this truck does not have airbags. If you have airbags in the seat, you should research for any special instructions on how to disconnect them.

Step 4: Carry the seat to a clean working surface. Carry the seat to a clean, warm, and roomy work area. Give yourself enough room so you can flip and rotate the seat around as needed.

Step 5: Remove Hog Rings. First - remove any aftermarket seat covers. Flip the seat upside down and locate the 3 hog rings on the underside that holds the flap in place. ***Since I installed aftermarket seat covers previously - I had already removed these hog rings - no pictures available. Hog Rings are hardened steal wire wrapped in a circle to act as a clip. A set of needle nose pliers can easily pry them open. You won't be re-using them so don't be afraid to destroy them. There are 3 that you need to remove.

Step 6: Remove more Hog Rings. Flip the flap back and you'll see 3 more hog rings to remove.

Step 7: Remove two side panel screws. There are two screws located at the back of the seat underneath the flap - both sides, Remove these using a phillips screwdriver.

Step 8: Remove side panel covers. This is somewhat tricky and you have to be patient and careful. First, remove the lumbar support knob by pulling it off. There seems to be one pullout clip and one slide-in slot (so to speak) as seen in the picture. Sorry for the vaque instructions - it took a bit for me to figure it out. BE CAREFUL metal is sharp - you'll want to use caution (or wear gloves).

Step 9: Remove other side panel cover. This side is even worse than the first side. Again, be patient and careful. I actually partially broke a clip in the process. Again - sorry for the vaque instructions. BE CAREFUL metal is sharp - you'll want to use caution (or wear gloves).

Step 10: Remove corner clothe pins. These are big round clips that hold the clothe in place at the back corners on both sides of the seat. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull them up a little bit at a time. BE CAREFUL metal is sharp - you'll want to use caution (or wear gloves).

Step 11: Unclamp/clip the clothe from around the seat bottom. Flip the seat upside down and start removing the outter clothe from the seat underbelly. These can also be tricky to work with and hard to explain. Picture shows the clothe already removed. BE CAREFUL metal is sharp - you'll want to use caution (or wear gloves).

Step 12: Peel the clothe up off the seat cushion. Flip the seat right-side up and begin to peel the seat cushion off the seat. You'll notice almost immediately - there are a lot more hog rings that need to be removed.

Step 13: Remove hog rings. This is where it gets somewhat difficult. The hog rings are hidden within each seam (see closeup) and usually 2 of them at each section. On the lower seat portion: Gently pull up on the wire guide out of the seam (do not bend) and get the needle nose pliers in and grap a hold of the hog rings and pull. Like the other hog rings - you should be able to open it up enough to take it off. You'll need to move from side to side removing the hog rings as you go and moving your way back towards the center seam. Remove the center seam hog rings. You won't be using these again, so feel free to destroy them. On the Seat Backing: I simply peeled the seat clothe upwards. I did not remove any hog rings on the upper seat portion.

Step 14: Take a break and grab a drink!! The hardest part is over.

Step 15: Mock-up & cut holes in the lower heating element. Take note to your installation instructions - the lower heating element MUST be the 4 wire heating element. Do not remove the tape from the element. Slide the element (fuzzy side OUT) on the foam with wiring harnass sticking out the back and 'centered' on the seat cushion. Tuck the element deep down inside the center seam. Verify that you are happy with the placement. With a magic marker - mark a line at the bottom of the seam (while tucked in the seam) where the hog rings are supposed to be. There should be 2 locations close to the edge. Refer to your instruction manual for further details. Cut small holes where the hog rings were and be careful not to cut the edges of the heating element or you will disrupt power to the rest of the heating element. After cutting holes in the element - verify the placement and tuck the element back into the seam as shown below. (Ty-wraps can be seen in this photo).

Step 16: Apply the tape. Remove the tape from the fuzzy side of the element and use it to tape down the end of the element to the seat foam. Honestly? This tape is pretty lame. I used it here knowing the seam will help hold it in place.

Step 17: Lower seat element final install: The kit came with a bunch of very small ty-wraps. However - they're too short to work with in my oppinion. Having longer ty-wraps makes this job a lot easier. DO NOT use metal clips or hog rings. The metal can interfere with the electrical connections. We decided to use 2 ty-wraps at each section just for strength. This task is also difficult if you have larger hands/fingers. We ran all the tywraps through the foam underneath the support line and let them stick up (as seen in the picture).

Step 18: Attach lower seat clothe using ty-wraps. Working your way from the back to the front (opposite of removal), Slowly attache ty-wraps to each metal support bar (same as you removed it) and pull the ty-wraps tightly. Cut the excess ty-wrap off and rotate the 'ends' so they're facing toward the bottom of the seat. Slowly work your way towards the front, working one spot at a time and going back-n-forth until you've tightened down all the ty-wraps and the seat cover is almost completely installed.

Step 19: Install Upper seat heater element. I decided to keep my heater element lower on the seat back and kept it below the seam. I did not remove any hog rings on the upper seat portion. The 2- wire element was large enough to sit up againest the upper seam. This was an easy install as there's nothing much to do but make sure the element stays attached to the foam. Remember - fuzzy side out. Once again - the tape they give you (stuck on the element) is really lame. I decided to run a piece of duct tape along the top of the element sticking it to the foam. I then ran two more longer pieces of duct tape along the sides to hold it in place. Sorry - I forgot to get pictures! This step may vary depending on where you decide to place your heating element.

Step 20: Install the seat clothe: For me, the upper seat clothe simply rolled back down onto the seat. The lower portion goes back together in the same manner/orientation as when you removed it.

Step 21: Re-install Side covers. No pictures needed here. Install the seat side covers in reverse order. Be careful & be patient. Some of the side covers are more difficult to install than they were to take apart.

Step 22: Install wiring harnass: Flip the seat upside down again. The kit came with a short wire harnass with a small black box on it. Install this by connecting to the seat heater elements. We rounted the harnasses underneath the seat, attaching them with t-ywraps to hold them in place. The plug end of the wire harnass sticks out at the rear section nearest where the center console is.

Step 23: Install seat back in the truck. Install the seat in the truck in reverse order of removal.

Step 24: Remove shift knob (auto). Simply unscrew the shift knob and remove.

Step 25: Remove shifter cover (auto). Simply grab the edges of the cubby (beside the shifter) and pull upward.

Step 26: Route extension harnass. The kit came with an extension harnass. Connect this to the harnass at the back of your seat. Route the wiring underneath the center console area (keep hidden if possible). You should be able to easily lift the console sides up to route the harnass. If not - remove the console (remove felt pad in bottom of console, remove 2 bolts). Your paticular application may vary depending on where you decide to mount your switch & power.

Step 27: Mount switch: We mounted the switch in the center shifter cover (silver cover- see pict below). Your installation may vary. Here's a picture of the backside of the switch. I used a 3/4" Unibit and drilled a hole up to its maximum hole size then gently filed the hole large enough to get the switch to fit in there tightly.

Backside

Topside

Step 28: Wiring Harnass - Ground: Install the power wiring harnass to the extension (from seat). We ty-wrapped the connection to the metal post (seen in picture). Installed the GROUND (black) wire to the existing ground connections using crimps & crimp tool. Now - route the red/hot power wire up towards the front of the cab. Ty-wrap all wires neatly and make sure none of the wires come in contact with moving parts (ebrake for example).

Step 29: Power red/hot wire: Route the red wire neatly and keep hidden underneath dash parts up to the fuse box. The fuse box is located underneath the change (pull-out) tray on the left side of the steering wheel. Ty-wrap all wires neatly and securely without obstruction.

Step 30: Fuse Box & Power: Remember, this write-up is for reference only. My husband does all the wiring because he is experienced with it. If you are not experienced with running electrical components - please find someone to help you with the install. Electricity should never be taken lightly.
Install: My husband used a multi-meter to probe the empty slots in the fuse box - Obviously, you have to connect the negatvie battery terminal to run these tests. He discovered an empty & fully powered 12V circuit and decided to use that as our connection. Since our seat heaters needed 10amp minimum service - we purchased an *Add-a-Line* (Buss Fuses) 2-10amp from Advance Auto. He used a crimp tool to attach the *Add-a-line* to the power wire. Installed the Add-a-line and one fuse and we were done!!

Step 31: TESTING: Time to make sure everything is hooked up and working properly. Turn the truck on and test the new seat heaters! Make sure everything is working before putting everything back together! Warm-up time may take 5 minutes.

Step 32: Button up and clean up: Install the change tray, shifter cover and shifter knob and anything else you needed to remove. Clean up all your tools and enjoy the new modification!!

Final Words: Although the install was somewhat time consuming and somewhat frustrating - it is well worth it (to me). I drive about 9 miles to work (one way) and it takes approximately 10-15 minutes overall travel time. I usually allow the truck to warm up for a few minutes before I travel - and I turn the seat heater on right away. By the time I travel approximately 1 mile from my house, I can feel the heater working. By the time I reach 2 miles from my home - the heater is toasty warm. So - if you travel longer distances and are in your truck for longer periods of time, these are GREAT! However, if you're in & out of your truck often and do a lot of short trips, these are not a good option for you - they just won't heat up fast enough for you to enjoy them.