1) Remove
Skid Plate
2) Disconnect
the Negative battery cable.
3) Drain
fluid out of the radiator - it may drip for
a long time.
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4) Remove
Upper Radiator hose. Be sure to stuff paper
towels (or other type of towel) in both holes. This will prevent
debris from getting inside.
5) Remove
all accessory belts (A/C belt, Steering pump belt, and Alternator
belt).
6) Remove
Fan Shroud |
NOTE: After removing the fan shroud, my husband cut a piece of cardboard
and inserted it over the radiator. This would help protect the
radiator while
we worked in that area. This picture shows the cardboard in place, all accessory belts
and upper radiator hose removed.
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7) Remove Fan from Fluid Coupling (part with cooling fins on it)
as seen here.
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8) Remove
Timing Belt Cover (as seen to the left). |
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9) Remove Power Steering Bracket.
Your power
steering pump should be slightly loose from when you removed
your belt. Do not totally disconnect the power steering
pump. Only remove the bracket that is seen below. This bracket
is attached to the Fan and pulley bracket assembly.
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10) Remove Fan Bracket - The Fan Bracket attaches the fluid coupling
and pulley assembly to the engine block.
We found it
easier to remove the fan bracket and lift the entire assembly
out of the vehicle instead of unbolting each unit separately.
Besides that, we were unable to get a good grip on the 'free spinning'
shaft to get the bolts loose on the fluid coupling. The
fan clutch would not allow us to do it. This is a picture of the entire fan bracket assembly removed from
the vehicle. It has the fluid coupling (top), pulley assembly
(middle) and the actual fan bracket (bottom).
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Make sure
the vehicle is in NEUTRAL and parking brake is ON before doing
this next step. You
are about to do one of the most intimidating things to your truck.
You're going to manually crank the engine!!!
The
top two pulleys are called Camshaft Pulleys.
The lower pulley is called the Crankshaft Pulley.
The Camshaft pulleys (upper) will have little notches on each
pulley. Take notice to where these notches are. The
(lower) Crankshaft Pulley will also have a notch in it.
11) Find yourself the proper
sized socket for the nut on the Crankshaft pulley (preferably
1/2" drive) and slowly turn the crankshaft (lower) pulley CLOCKWISE ONLY!!!! Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the little notch is lined
up with the ZERO as seen below. This will set the timing to ZERO - setting Cylinder #1 at top
dead center (TDC). |
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Take notice
to the upper pulleys, the notches should be positioned similar
to each other and near the top.
For
our water pump installation, we will not be removing the timing
belt completely. Because of this, we need to mark the timing belt
and each of the camshaft pulleys with a magic marker (or other
clearly visible writing object). Mark a straight line across both
the belt and the pulley to ensure a straight line crosses each.
This will ensure we get the timing belt teeth back on the pulleys
in the exact teeth position they were before we removed it.
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12) Find a piece of wood approximately 1" thick and about 5" X 8" long
(I'm guessing). Or, if you have some cargo straps......keep them
aside and ready for the next step. |
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13) If you have air conditioning - at this moment, you will wish you
didn't! Take a cargo strap and wrap it underneath the A/C compressor
pulley and then around the steering pump. Tie it down loosely. This
cargo strap will help support the A/C compressor(safety precaution)as
seen below. The piece of wood that I mentioned above, will be wedged
underneath the compressor and the cross member. This will allow the
compressor to rest on the wood without putting stress on the A/C
lines. |
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14) Now
that you have the A/C compressor supported with straps & wood,
remove the 4 bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the bracket.
Carefully slide the A/C compressor & wooden support over as
far as you can against the frame. You'll need all the room you
can get in-between the compressor and the A/C bracket.
15) Remove the A/C bracket from the vehicle - there are 2 bolts hidden
in-between the A/C compressor and the bracket. This is the main
reason why you needed to remove the A/C compressor. As seen below,
a picture of the A/C bracket. NOTE: We cleaned a LOT of mud and
dirt off of this bracket. The mud was caked inside!!! |
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16) At this time, you'll want to focus your attention on the Timing
Belt tensioner as seen to the left (arrows). The long arrow on the
right is pointing to the tensioner pulley. The pulley is a hydraulic
tensioner and has a reservoir tube where the fluid is stored (center
arrow bottom). We did not have any special tools or equipment on
how to release the pressure on this pulley so we were forced to
come up with our own way of doing this. If you'll look at the outer
arrows (bottom section), these are the bolts that hold the tensioner
in place. |
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17) Loosen these bolts a little bit at a time - rotating back and forth
between the two bolts. You will not remove these bolts nor will
you remove the entire tensioner assembly. As you loosen the bolts,
the hydraulic assembly will begin to separate itself from the engine
block/mounting area. Each time you loosen both bolts, check the
tension on the timing belt. You want to get the tensioner at its
max position without removing the bolts. Just enough slack......to
allow you to remove the upper pulley. As seen to the left, a picture
of the assembly as it has separated from the mounting point. You
shouldn't need to loosen it anymore than this. |
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18) When the belt is just slack enough - focus your attention
on the upper (central pulley) as seen in the picture below. Remove
this pulley.
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19) Carefully remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys. Be
very careful to ensure the teeth do not slip from the crankshaft
pulley below. We used a tie-wrap and strapped the belt aside to
prevent it from falling or getting in our way. To the left is
a picture of the old water pump. The small pulley in the center
of the picture is the water pump pulley (drives the pump).
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20) Remove the lower radiator hose (make sure you have a bucket to
catch any excess antifreeze).
21) Disconnect the Thermostat housing. Be careful when removing, the
thermostat is inside. Make a mental note of how the thermostat
is installed (spring side goes into the block).
22) Disconnect the rubber hose that is on the water pump (right side).
This hose will still have fluid inside. Try not to loose any of
this fluid. When you remove it -point the end of the hose upward
to prevent spillage. |
23) Grab some old towels or paper towels and plug up the area that
the timing belt goes into. This is to prevent any dirt falling
down inside and interfering with the crankshaft pulley. If you've
done a lot of muddin, you will be making a mess! DO NOT get any
fluids, or oil on the timing belt.
24) At this time, you may want to disconnect the oil dipstick bracket
off the alternator. Be careful not to bend or kink.
25) Unbolt all 7 bolts on the water pump. Carefully maneuver (finesse)
the water pump out of the vehicle. You may need to shift the dipstick
over slightly to get the water pump completely out. |
26) You'll want to take more paper towels and plug up all
those holes in the engine block. You do not want to get any dirt
inside.
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27) Clean all the gasket material off the engine block. Clean all
the surrounding areas. As seen in the picture, I'm using a Dremel
tool with a wire brush end to clean the surfaces. The surfaces
need to be nice and smooth and clean before applying the new water
pump.
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28) After the surfaces have been cleaned thoroughly, you can remove
the paper towels from the holes in the engine block.
29) At this time - you will need to prep your new water pump. For
a 1996 Tacoma with a V6 - the Water pump part # is:16100-69395.
We also replaced the thermostat which is part #: 90916-03075.
We bought our water pump from Conicelli Toyota Internet sales
for $87. I didn't get any pictures of the new pump so I'll bless
you with pictures of the old muddy one just to give you an idea
of what it looks like. |
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The picture
on the RIGHT has the old thermostat in place. As you can see,
the mounting surfaces of the pump have a small ridge. This is
where you will apply gasket material on the new (and clean) pump.
We used Permatex Ultra Blue Sensor-safe RTV Silicone Gasket maker.
You will need a similar gasket material for this application.
Make sure you read the directions and follow them carefully.
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30) Carefully install the water pump in the same manor that you removed
it. Be careful not to bump or accidentally remove any of the gasket
material off the pump or you could encounter leaks. Only hand
tighten the bolts initially - do not over tighten. According to
our Toyota Tacoma service manual, the torque specifications on
the bolts are 14 ft/lbs.
Here is a
picture of the new water pump, thermostat, and hoses installed.
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